Surviving splendours and curiosities: discover them before the tourists get here
Timor-Leste can boast a truly rich history, a long line of people who have shaped history, a fully-fledged political democracy and, most recently, a strong female presence in the corridors of power. Today, more than a quarter of MPs are women. But the country is a lot more than a socio-political story. It is a country of breathtaking, lush landscapes and cultural curiosities that need to be discovered now, before the tourists turn up by the thousands.
Timor-Leste
© Hegel Goutier
Few people know much about Timor. For a start, there is even some confusion about its name. Is it East Timor, Timor-Leste, Timor Lorosae, Timor Loro'sae? The official title may be the Democratic Republic of East Timor, but the most commonly used names are the simplified Portuguese and Tetum ones: Timor-Leste and Timor Lorosae/Timor Loro'sae, the two written forms in the local language, Tetum. Leste means ‘east’ while Lorosae also refers to the ‘east’ or ‘the rising sun.’
And while the country has experienced several painful upheavals since independence in 2002, the dire warnings against travel to the country posted on the Internet sites of various Western governments seem to be more than a bit exaggerated. Admittedly, the civil strife of 2002 caused large numbers of the population to flee their homes and forced the UN to maintain troops in the country to help protect the new government. During this time, though, foreigners have remained relatively safe.
away, but the city is well maintained. There is little evidence of poverty on the streets and it is the same in the refugee camps where the displaced people have settled.
Dili’s waterfront offers a range of welcoming restaurants. There, visitors can watch the sun turning the waters pink as it slowly sinks into the bay and you can delight at the view as you wait for the fish and seafood you have chosen. For the more adventurous, a climb up the steps to the statue of Christ the King exposes a panorama of mangroves, white sand and seascapes.
To discover the country’s geographical treasures it is necessary to head north from Dili to the country's second largest city, Baucau, 140 kilometres away. This drive quickly reveals that Timor resembles nothing less than a large piece of crumpled paper. The southern plains apart, there is nothing but mountains, split from place to place by valleys. Some of the mountains rise to a height of over 3,000 metres.
Visitors can break the journey at Laleia to admire the church and paddy fields that spread out around the town like a nature park. Manatuto is also worth a visit again with its paddy fields.
In Baucau there are remnants of the Portuguese colonial era – a town that still exudes a distinguished air and its pousada [country inn] is worthy of one in the Portuguese Alentejo. But there is much more for the visitor to see, including the heights of the Gunung Tatamailu (2,965 metres) in the centre of the country, the southern plains and the high valleys are just a sample of its unforgettable geography.
Timor's culture and customs are curiosities in themselves. A country of barely one million people has 15 language groups and these are further divided into hundreds of dialects that have little in common.
And although one language, Tetum, might be understood by more than half the population, Indonesian is probably the most widely spoken. However, Indonesian is no longer recognised as an official language having too many unhappy associations with the past, as it was imposed on the islanders following the invasion of the country.
The music of Timor is starting be appreciated, a mixture of four and a half centuries of colonisation and local traditions. There is the Tebe-dai, mainly played in church and during official ceremonies in the traditional sacred houses (uma lulik) as well as during the rice harvest. It is reminiscent of certain types of Portuguese religious music, all pomp and ceremony.
But the most popular music is the koremetan. Domingos de Sousa, Director-General of the Ministry of Education, and an expert on Timorese culture, explains that in the old days people rarely used musical instruments. The ‘music’ they produced came from their dancing bodies, feet tapping the floor providing the rhythm. Today, some koremetan groups, such as the Smith Brothers, are now known beyond the country's borders.
The younger generation listens to rock music from East Timor, which draws its inspiration from all corners of the globe. Particularly influenced by reggae and modern rock bands, a dozen or so performers and groups such as the New Cinco do Oriente and Jahera, are already national stars.
Many young Timorese are also crazy about the martial arts; however this often has a negative effect as many of the street gangs use martial arts in committing crimes and causing problems for the rest of the population. Despite these negative connotations, the martial arts are still held up as a basis for artistic and physical expression.
Tais (‘weaving’ in Tetum). The Timorese tais head-scarf or neck-scarf is as famous and as representative of the country as the Palestinian keffieh. During the struggle for independence members of the resistance often concealed tais headscarves as a symbol of their commitment to action for change.
Such is their popularity that a virtual museum has been created in Australia as a showcase for the quality and diversity of tais, http://www.etimortais.org.
In recent years an increasing number of Westerners have become avid collectors. Luckily, they are still being sold at a reasonable price inside the country.
Cock-fighting is also very popular in Timor-Leste and the sport has its own stadium, betting system and etiquette. Culture expert Domingos de Sousa explained that, “During the time of the Portuguese the sport was held in the bazaars and there was an admission charge and official permits. Today, there are not so many controls, but it is still a passion.”
Finally, although only a few remain, the Fataluku houses reflect a once typical and original form of architecture. With their sculptures of wood or horn, pottery and woven baskets, they form part of the catalogue of must-see cultural artifacts in Timor. These cultural pieces, places and practices have survived in spite of the long dark years that make up the recent history of this small country.
Perhaps its very survival reflects in the people’s will to resist and their eventual reward of freedom.
- Timor-Leste
- Birth of a nation: An epic effort
- Post-crisis optimism - Political and economic background
- Timor's key concern: preparing for ASEAN membership
- No Violence Please! Toppling the government by hook or by crook - Mari Alkatiri, leader of the opposition
- Understanding the Timorese - Listening to Bishop Basilio Nacimento
- Strengthening institutional capabilities and rural development… and responding quickly to crises - East Timor and the European Union
