Discovering the beauty of a country to be seen on foot
“This is my project – Dominica, and it is ideal for your magazine”, she says, pinning a map of the island on the wall to show the routes linking and highlighting the country’s treasures, natural wonders and places of historical and cultural significance. Yvanette Baron-George is the manager of the Waitukubuli National Trail Project created by a local NGO, which aims to manage a hiking trail winding across the island from north to south and allowing visitors to discover the country’s natural beauty and places of major historical and cultural interest.
Emerald Fall, 2009.
© Hegel Goutier
The project is funded by the Dominican government and the European Union (€5.9M) in partnership with the Regional Council of Martinique. Many sections of the trail, which will total 184 km (115 miles) when finished, are already useable.
Much of the trail already existed and was cleared in the past by the indigenous community of Dominica. Now, the ‘trail project’ will link up the various sections. Today, the majority of the task is complete and tourists are already arriving in Dominica to visit it. For those in a hurry, there is a way of discovering most of the sights by car or by taking short walks that can easily be done in a day. Admittedly, it does not allow you to see the gases and steam rising from the Boiling Lake or the volcanic peaks because it takes a few hours to walk there and back from the road. But it’s worthwhile all the same.
Roseau, the capital, is a timeless little gem. It seems almost antiquated with its gingerbread houses and its French quarter with its sloping side streets are ideal for a casual stroll. And its floral exuberance with bougainvillea, birds of paradise, poinsettias and hibiscus on every small balcony and balustrade.
The tropical forest starts right at the gates of the city. This can be explored, but there is a strong temptation to follow the main road along the west coast. You will pass Canefield, where you can visit the excellent Old Mill Cultural Centre. This is a museum for the sugar cane industry, a museum of contemporary art and a multi-purpose cultural centre with a library, theatre and concert venue. Not to mention the pleasure of ambling through the courtyards filled with captivating fragrances.
A little further along the route is the historical village of Massacre, the scene at the beginning of the colonial period of a Shakespearian episode, where a governor’s two sons fought each other. One, who was white-Indian mixed race, was massacred with his partisans by his European half-brother. A mural by Earl Etienne commemorates this historical event, which appears to have been played down by legend. It provides an insight into the art of the island’s most famous painter.
The lion’s face
Those who like entertainment can stop at Mahau, the town which, though small, never sleeps. The lion’s face – ‘lion djel’ in anglicised Creole – is not to be missed either. Part of the ‘lion’s nose’ in this enormous rock formation had to be cut out in order to construct the road. A visit simply has to be paid to Portsmouth, a magnificent town full of nostalgia and romanticism, a stone’s throw away from Prince Rupert Bay to the south with its beach of fine sand. Near to Portsmouth, for a total change of scenery, take the two-hour boat trip on the Indian River, one of the locations where ‘Pirates of the Caribbean’ was shot. Indescribable, this takes you onto slack water with a silence encapsulated by the flora of giant mangroves and other aquatic plants. The most subtle note of a bird’s song can be heard distinctly. Returning down the west coast, you will pass through the Carib Territory, where you can discover a living Amerindian culture and speak with its chief, Charles Williams. The EU has funded a number of projects to support the Carib Community, including childhood education centres, community facilities, fisheries development and even a bakery. Or you can even enjoy a drink in his bed-and-breakfast accommodation or treat yourself to a hand-made ornament. Visit the tropical forest, classed as a world heritage site, to admire the breathtaking Emerald Fall. It is unique, yet there is still so much more to discover on the island.
Great artist – Earl Etienne
Earl Etienne is one of the most widely exhibited Dominican artists. In his own country he is a major figure. He used to manage the Old Mill Cultural Centre in Canefield on the way to Roseau which is the most active arts centre in the country. Earl Etienne’s work is very diverse. He is part of an international movement that is closer to abstraction than figuration. His works, even the monochrome ones like his gas burner engravings, conceal warmth, an internal light.
His creativity sparkles. He works with all kinds of tools and materials and many of the techniques found in painting and engraving as well as all those which he has invented and continues to invent every day. But rather than this technical inventiveness, it is the creativity characterised by his inspiration and deft touch that is fascinating.
A well-known historian turns his hand to construction
A respected historian turned entrepreneur, Lennox Honychurch is an architect and a craftsman who is committed to restoring the authenticity of a dilapidated historical heritage site with a relatively small budget. A doctor in anthropology at Oxford, he is a writer, journalist, historian, radio and television broadcaster, conservationist of places of artistic importance and an artist.
The site in question is Fort Shirley which dates back to the second half of the 18th century. Honychurch’s association began small-scale work more than 20 years ago with few resources. The construction work really got underway when the project was selected for funding from the EC Ecotourism Development Fund, in 2006. Lennox Honychurch began by carrying out research on the fort in the UK. All the documents required were in the Public Records Office at the National Archives.
The restoration work was of such a high standard that the EC granted additional funds. This totalled EC$1M (just under €300,000). A monumental job was achieved with this funding. It involved the complete restoration of the fort and most of the outbuildings, and the provision of basic equipment to enable the centre to begin its activities.
The government is considering funding the centre for ecology, the environment and natural heritage of Dominica and the entire region aimed at young people, as Honychurch’s association had wished.
http://www.lennoxhonychurch.com
